Tuesday, 22 April 2014

Makup by nush: eyeshadow looks using Coastal Scents quads, Part Five (Gypsy Blue, Wizardry, Steel Grey, Cajun Craze)

Hi Guys,
Basically, I bought a bunch of Shadow Pots (single shadows) from Coastal Scents, and customized them into 6 4 pan palettes. So each instalment in this series features one quad, and four looks made using its shadows. I sometimes add a fifth look if inspiration strikes me.
The Quad:
(Left to right: Cajun Craze, Wizardry, Gypsy Blue, Steel Grey)
Gypsy Blue (top left): a beautiful light blue/ gold duo chrome shadow with a satin finish. You'll see that in certain light and with layering you can bring out an almost pure gold colour that makes a gorgeous highlight. If you're looking at buying some CS shadows, note that this, Niagara, and Lakeshore are ridiculously similar; Lakeshore is a fraction darker and more blue.
Wizardry (top right): I'd describe this as a metallic pine colour with a satin rather than shimmer finish. It is soft and buttery and has barely any fallout. It also blends beautifully.
Steel Grey (bottom left): another very metallic shade, this is just stunning. To describe it as 'grey' does it no justice. It is ridiculously pigmented, has a beautiful sheen, and can take on either a bluish or plumish cast in certain lights. One of my favourites.
Cajun Craze (bottom right): the website may say orange-red, and this picture may back it up, but this colour is more of a reddish bronze. It is certainly much darker than the picture. That said, it is pigmented, butter soft, and has a metallic finish. If you're considering buying this, please note that Canyon Coral (Palette 1), and Sundried (Palette 2) are almost the same colour. Buy one, not all, if this colour strikes your fancy.

Now on to the looks...

Using any kind of eyeliner that strikes your fancy, closely line your lower lash line, from outer corner inward. Just before the tear-duct, pull the liner downward, mimicking the curve of your upper eyelid at the inner corner. Don't be afraid to adjust the thickness, length, angle, and placement of the line as much as you'd like based on your preferences and eye shape. Using a small stiff angled brush, stamp Steel Grey along the line you have made. I went over my line several times to really bring out the metallic quality of said shadow. Now, with a fluffy brush, blend Gypsy Blue all over your eye lid. When you get to the inner corner, use a smaller brush, and pack on more colour in order to bring out the gold tones of this shadow. Fill in the area around under the tear-duct and above the little reverse wing of your liner to open up the eye. Add mascara.


Smoky eye time! This look is dark and smoky and a bit wild, WITHOUT involving only black and black and more black. I like to think of it as a bright smoky eye. I know smoky eyes may be intimidating, but have no fear, this is easy as. Step one: using a black pencil liner, line the outer two thirds of your upper and lower lash lines. There's no need to be precise or careful at all. Step two: smudge smudge smudge. Just use your fingers. Smudge the colour up onto your lid as well. Whatever shape it turns out is totally fine. Step three: with the same black pencil, tight-line and rim your waterline. That's all the black done. Step Four: pick up Steel Grey with a flat shadow brush, and pack it onto the outer third of your lid, and blend it inwards. Keep packing on the shadow and blending until you have reached the intensity you're comfortable with. Pull the shadow along the lower lash line as well, barring the inner corner. Step Five: take Gypsy Blue, and build it up on the inner corner and along the inner third of the both top and bottom eyelids. Blend slightly into the Grey in the center of the lid. You can leave it at that, or Step Six: add some lashes. This look is kind of dramatic, and won't be overpowered by a set of lashes.
Smudge, blend, highlight: smoky eye.

Aaaaand now there are four pictures. Again. Sorry. Overload. It's a lighting thing; the effect is just so different (that one photo was under a fluorescent bulb) . Anyway, after the last look, I was inspired to do a blown out day-time appropriate smoky eye. It is ridiculously simple, you don't even have to involve brushes if you don't want to. Swirl your finger in Cajun Craze. Start at the upper lash line (where you'll deposit the most colour), and blend in, up, and outwards. Yes, that's right, in up out. You can take this colour right into the inner corners smack bang into your nose, up to the brow-bone, and out as far as you'd like. Vary pressure, and smudge to your liking. Don't be afraid to double (or triple) dip to make the effect more intense. Now pick up a bit of Wizardry, and smudge it into the crease above the outer third of the lid. Next, place a dot of Steel Grey onto the very outer corner of the crease, and blend it into the Wizardry you just put down. The effect should be really light, but still give definition to the look. Next, line your waterline. I used a grey pencil, but feel free to use anything you like (a bronze shade would be especially beautiful). Smudge some Cajun Craze along the lower lash line. Mascara. Done.


Now despite the falsies, which are clearly barely there, this is such a simple, clean, wearable look. Subtle. That's the word. It's subtle, and very easy to accomplish. Yay. Step one: with a fluffy brush, sweep Wizardry all over your lid and slightly up into your crease. Keep the colour focused on the lids. Step Two: Take a fine liner brush. You can use it dry, but it would be easier to spray said brush with a setting spray, or wet it with some eye drops. Pick up Gypsy Blue. Slowly, and in small strokes (you could even dab if you find that simpler), draw a line along your lower and upper lash lines, staying as close to the roots of your lashes as possible. At the outer corner, wing the Gypsy Blue out towards the tail end of the brow. Step Three: it may take several passes over the line to get the desired blue-gold intensity. Remember, it's not a high-contrast look. You're using Wizardry as a base, and adding some light and dimension by lining with Gypse Blue. Optional: add a pair of falsies. I went for ones that were really natural, and not too fancy, keeping with the subtle feel of the look.
5/ Bonus: 

Man I look like I'm going to kill someone in that last shot, huh? I took a shot of a tiger once that wasn't dissimilar (I may have used it in one of my Optometry posts, feel free to go have a look). This look started off on a whim, and by the time I was done I LOVED it. Hopefully y'all will too. First of all, you're going to mark off your sections with a nude liner pencil. You could also do this with any other colour, or even a black liquid liner. Draw a thickish line down the center (or thereabouts) of your top and bottom lid, making it look like the lower line is a continuation of the top. Next, you're going to pack Cajun Craze onto the outer upper quadrant, and the inner bottom quadrant of the eye. It's just a game of filling in the holes. Next, pack Steel Grey onto the inner upper, and lower outer quadrants of your eye. If any shadow has gotten onto your nude liner, just retrace it. Finally, add mascara or a set of natural fluttery looking lashes.
Now, should I put this up, or not? I'm getting to the end of my Coastal Scents quads! aaaaaaahhh! then what will I do?
I actually think it would be easier if I just made these into videos, I know it can be tough to look at a picture and try to match that to a written description. Maybe i'll try it, we'll see.
For now, as always, I hope you liked this, I hope it maybe inspired you to play around with your own makeup (or someone else's). If you have any requests of things you'd like reviewed, looks you'd like me to do, and so on, just let me know and I will try my best.

Saturday, 19 April 2014

Makeup by nush: Eyeshadow looks using Coastal Scents Quads, Part Four (Ivory Dust, Ice Ballet, Elven Midnight, Cherry Moss)

Hi Guys,
welcome to Part Four of my Coastal Scents quad series. If you haven't already, I'd love it if you would check out the first three parts as well. This palette contains some of my favourite shades, and one of my least favourite. Of course, you never know until you buy these things, but hopefully I'll be able to review each shade well enough, so that it may guide/aid you.
The Quad:
(left to right: Cherry Moss, Ivory Dust, Elven Midnight, Ice ballet)
Cherry Moss (top left): stunning. Just plain stunning. Of all the colours I have reviewed so far, this is by far my favourite. It's a reddish-brown duo chrome that can look green depending on the light. It doesn't have fallout problems, and feels like velvet in the pan.
Ivory Dust (top right): and this one? not so much. Dust is apt in this case. So chalky, chunky, piecey, glittery, it's a tough colour to work with. If you tap your brush into it, and examine said brush, you'll see all the individual particles of colour you've picked up. You know what I mean? Not a fan. At all.
Elven Midnight (bottom left): another beauty. It looks quite dark in the pan, and it can be built up (as you'll see in a bit), but you can really blend this to your desired intensity, and have it look like different colours. It's definitely not 'gun metal' as the CS site claims, more of a metallic silvery-purple.
Ice Ballet (bottom right): a shimmery lavender colour. This suffers from a bit of fallout, but it's such a great colour I think that can be forgiven. It too has quite a silvery metallic finish, and goes so well paired with Elven Midnight (as you'll also see).

Let's start with something simple and summery with a pop of colour. Pack Ivory Dust all over your lid. Make sure to tap off excess, and know that it may take you awhile to build up the colour you want. Maybe even hold a tissue under your eye to catch fallout (this shade is lucky it's light.. a darker hue would be an unmitigated disaster). On a stiff angled/ straight cut brush, line your lower lash line with Ice Ballet. Add mascara, or some falsies, and you're good to go.

Here you can see part of the spectrum of Elven Midnight. It may look like Ice Ballet, but all the purple in this look is Elven Midnight. First, pack the colour onto the lower half of your top eyelid (i.e. keep away from the crease). Using a stiff brush, pull the colour down along your lower lash line as well. Now, the best way to do this next part (considering all of Ivory Dust's faults) is to take a white/ off white eyeliner pencil, and trace a thick line, almost in a half-moon shape, from inner to outer corner of your top lid. Feel free to go over the line to get some colour intensity, and to make it as thick or think as you like. Next, take your stiff angled brush, and stamp a line of Elven Midnight above the white line, again following that half-moon shape. Now, taking another small stiff angled brush, stamp ivory dust over the white line you created. This will intensify the white, and add a shimmery pop every time you bat your eyelids. If you have quite hooded eyes like I do, you'll only see the head and tail ends of said line when your eyes are fully open, but it will have the effect of opening up a hooded eye. Your last step is to go back in with Elven Midnight and intensify the colour; Ivory Dust may have diluted it a bit. Add mascara, and done.

My absolute favourite look thus far, this is a very sultry smoky-adjacent look. Start by packing Ice Ballet all over the lid. With a tiny brush, pat some Ivory dust under your brow, and in the inner corner/tear-duct area as a highlight. Now, take Elven Midnight on a stiff straight edged brush, and create a defined outer V; pull the colour up from the lower lash line towards the tail end of the brow, stopping at about crease height. Using that same brush for a precise edge, pull the colour inward into the crease and about a third of the way across the eyelid. Pack the colour onto that outer corner until you achieve the desired intensity. Line your lower lash line with Elven Midnight too. Now, for that added somethin somethin, run a liner along your waterline. I've used a bronze liner, but feel free to use black or any colour you feel like. You can do this same look with so many different colours, and a contrasting colour in the waterline will really make the look pop. If you feel like, add a half strip of lashes, as I have done, to intensify and elongate that outer V, giving you a more cat-eyed look.
Ah Cherry Moss. How Purdy thou art. Also how much of a pain in the ass. You would not believe how much effort it took to get this to show up on camera AT ALL. Maybe on someone with a lighter skin tone? I'm going to try it on my mother, and i'll get back to you. However, I do not think that's the problem. The colour is just so multifaceted that I think it's tough to capture all the nuances. Anyway, for this look. Prime your eye, preferably with a matte primer (there's going to be enough shimmer up in here). Give that a minute, and then cover your eyelid with a matte white shadow, or with a white liner pencil that you can smudge and blend out. Use the same pencil to line your waterline and the inner corner of your eye. Next, simply pat Cherry Moss all over the lid, and along the lower lash line. Blend the colour up and into the crease as well. The more you blend, and the thinner the shadow gets, the more the reddish tones come out. Just keep pat pat patting away. Next, to ground the whole look, draw a thin line of liquid liner along the upper lash line, and flick it out very slightly. The end. I'm going to add a few more shots with glasses so you can see how the different looks wear in that case. Quite well, I think, in this case. 
5/ Bonus:

This points again to how the colour looks different under different lighting. Using a flat shadow brush, pat Ice Ballet on the inner third of the eyelid. Using the same brush, pick up more Ice Ballet and some Elven Midnight, and pat it onto the outer third of the eyelid. Mirror that on the lower lash line. Next pat some Ivory Dust under the lid, and on the inner tear-duct. Now, pack pack pack Cherry Moss on the bare center of the lid to bring out its green shimmer. Pull the colour over the entirety of the outer third of the lid as well. Use a pencil brush to line your lower lash line with it. You can leave it there, but especially if you're wearing glasses, or looking for some drama, add some lashes (they don't have to be as psychotic as these).  
Should I do a 6th look? Let me know if you'd like one.
Went ahead and did a 6th look:

Pat Ivory Dust on the inner corner of your eye, and under your brow-bone. Take an orange or red liner pencil (substitute for something more conventional, green for example, whatever you have access to), and fill in the inner and outer third of your lid. Take the pencil along your lower lash line as well. Next, pack Cherry Moss onto the center and outer third of the lid. Blend. Take a bit along the center of your lower lash line as well. Blend some more, and you're done.
There we go, Part Four, I hope you enjoyed it/ got inspired by it.
PS: I tried Cherry Moss on my mom, who is whitey-mc-white (ok, it's not that bad), and it turned out SO BEAUTIFULLY. I did her makeup for her night out tonight, used Oatmeal Tan from Palette 1 in the crease and lightly washed over the lid. Then put Cherry Moss on top. Then for a real pop I put Aluminum Taupe from Palette 1 just on the center of the lid. Stunning. Honestly.

Thursday, 17 April 2014

Makeup by nush: Coastal Scents eyeshadow looks, Part Three (Caramelized, Seaside Bronze, Bon Voyage, and Caribbean)

Hi Guys,
welcome to Part Three of my Coastal Scents quad eye shadow marathon. If you're new (hi) to this series, I bought a bunch of shadow pots (single pressed shadows) from Coastal Scents and made them into 6 quads. In each instalment of this series I take one palette and create four different eye looks. It's just meant to inspire you to maybe play with your own makeup, or give you ideas, or if you're considering buying something from Coastal Scents, I've got mini reviews of each colour in the quads, and you can see how they perform on the eye.
The Quad:

(Left to right: Seaside Bronze, Caramelized, Bon Voyage, Caribbean)
Caramelized (top left): a shimmery bronze/copper colour. It is significantly chunky, and as such quite hard to work with, let alone blend. It works well if you just want to lay the colour down (like as a liner), as opposed to blending it out. Great pigmentation.
Caribbean (top right): my favourite shade in the palette. Great pigmentation (it's a very vivid blue), barely any fallout, easy to blend. Shimmery without being chunky.
Seaside Bronze (bottom left): a yellow gold shimmer shade. I ran into the same problems as with Caramelized. Chunky, very "glittery"/piecey, tough to blend. Best when stamped on. Great pigmentation.
Bon Voyage (bottom right): the least pigmented of the quad, but it gives a nice satin (almost matte) turquoise finish. Very easy to blend, and looks great in the crease or as a wash all over the lid. Very Spring/Summer.
Using a large blending brush, sweep Caramelized all over your lid and up into the crease. Be patient, and blend softly. You will be tempted to just pile it on, and brush it into submission, but that'll just hurt your eyelid. Now find yourself a small, stiff, angled brush. Got it? Ok. Dip the edge of your brush into Caribbean. Following the curve of your eye shape, stamp the colour all the way from inner to outer corner on both top and bottom lash lines. In the inner corner, extend the line from the upper lash line downward until it meets the line on the lower lash line. At the outer corner, pull the line from the bottom lash line, up towards the tail of your brow. Let the colour fade towards the end. Now add mascara, OR...

some false lashes.

Apparently I'm very into liner today. Don't worry if you're not, number three is a nice blown out number. Anyway, yes, this look. I thought it would be fun to try and play with negative space a little bit, and use Seaside bronze in a different way. The first thing I put down was Seaside Bronze. With your little stiff angled brush, stamp the gold colour from your inner corner, up into and following the line of your crease, and then wing it out to the tail of your brow. Now. I did the stupid thing, and did my black liner first. Put the cream/white/off-white/yellowish pencil/gel/liquid down first. I just had a nude pencil at my disposal.. very much in need of a sharpen.. but yes. Line the bottom of the gold line we put down with your nude colour. THEN move onto your liquid/gel liner. Draw a reasonably thick line from inner to outer corner, winging it out towards the tail of the brow, following along the lines of the gold and the nude. You want to keep everything stiff and defined. Add mascara to finish.

Why are there 3 photos? because the lighting was a bit different, the position of the eye was a bit different, and I just like options :p So, makeup. Step One: pick up Bon Voyage with a fluffy blending brush and do just that into the crease. Blend, pick up more colour, blend, etc. This will provide a nice gradient for Caribbean, which you should pack all over the lid, and pull along the lower lash line as well. Make sure both colours are blended so there are no harsh lines. Next, take Seaside bronze, and pat it onto the centre of the lid. Blend slightly. With the same brush, pick up a bit of Caramelized, and pat it onto the outer third of the lid. Blend slightly. Mimic the effect on the lower lash line. It's important with so much colour (especially blue, which can turn 80s in 2 seconds flat) to add some grounding black, either in the form of liner, mascara, or falsies. Here I've used a half strip of lashes on the outer third of the eye.
Side note: you'll find lashes a lot easier to apply when you cut them in two and use both or just one of the halves.

 My favourite of the four looks is also the simplest. Using a flat shadow brush, pick up some Seaside bronze and place it on the inner third of your lid. Flip the brush over, pick up some Caramelized, and apply to the centre of the lid, overlapping slightly with the gold. Feel free to go back and build up the colour to your desired intensity. Rub off your brush, and pick up Bon Voyage. Place this on the outer third of your lid, overlapping somewhat with the copper. Flip your brush over again and in the outer V, place Caribbean, overlapping slightly with Bon Voyage. Be careful to keep all the shadows on the lid, and don't let them migrate into the crease. You don't want to blend much with this look. The gradient simply comes from the placement and overlapping of the different colours. Draw a brown/bronze/or even black liner along the lower lash line. Rim your waterline if you'd like to make the look more intense.  

I honestly didn't know if I would have a fifth look for this palette. My eyes were so sore after the first four, and it can be a bit difficult not to just stick to the standard- mid tone in the crease, highlight on the inner corner, etc.- eye shadow playbook. Hopefully these looks will inspire more than that. For this look, you'll need Bon Voyage, Caribbean, and either a glitter liner, or some loose glitter and a base. Take Bon Voyage on a crease/contour brush, and work it into and slightly above the crease. Take your time building the intensity of the colour,  and blend blend blend. In just the very outer corner, dab a bit of Caribbean in a vague V shape. With a fine liner brush, line your lower lash line with Bon Voyage. At this point, you should have colour in your crease and under your eye, but your lid should be bare. This is where you're going to put your glitter. I prefer a silvery colour to go with the icy blues, but you can use anything you own really. I put a matte eye shadow base down in that area so my liner had something to stick to (matte, so that not EVERYTHING about this look was shimmery). Then fill in your lid with the glitter. It will catch the light beautifully and it is a great Spring/Summer look.
Hope y'all enjoyed this. Stick with me for Part Four.